Sorry it's taken me so long to write a new post. I've been a busy girl, and have lots to fill you guys in on. Here's the highlights reel. Well, highlights and then some; now that I am finished and looking back at it, it's more like the entire game.
I went to the Tower of London this morning. A Beefeater yelled a tour of the place. There are about 150 Beefeaters who live in the Tower, and they serve as guides and hosts to the Tower's guests. My guide was pretty sassy. At one point he asked a lady to put away her video camera because he doesn't like those things pointed at him. Hmm. In addition to the Beefeaters, the Tower is home to the Crown Jewels, eight ravens, an armory museum, and a lot of bloody history. William the Conqueror built it as a fortress, complete with prison tower, executioners block (where several nobles lost their heads), and stinky feces-filled double moat. Pretty impressive.
With a Beefeater
The White Tower, the Tower of London's major landmarkAfter the Tower I cruised the Thames River to Westminster Pier. It was sort of a dreary day, but a fun ride and neat view of the city. Once ashore, I walked up to Westminster Abbey. This place is all at once very beautiful and just a little bit weird. It was built by William the Confessor, and has held every royal coronation since his (he crowned himself). It also holds the remains of some famous dead, including Bloody Mary and Elizabeth I (both queens). In Poet's Corner I stared at monuments honoring Chaucer (buried there), Dickens, Shakespeare, Browning, Shelley, the Brontes, Wordsworth, Handel, and many more. I stayed for Evensong, my second ever Anglican service (the first was a wedding). It was impressive. I was there early enough--having stayed--to get a coveted seat in the choir loft. The boys/mens choir came in and filled in near me. There was responsive reading and singing, and it was all really beautiful. I really loved watching the little boys. They did a Magnificat in another language, really staccato, and made the best faces. Except for this one little Asian boy on the front row, who sang all his parts but looked bored out of his mind.
After Evensong I did Rick Steves' Westminster Walk from the Abbey, Houses of Parliament and Big Ben to Trafalgar Square. On the way I saw cool old buildings, monuments, and #10 Downing Street, home of the UK's new Prime Minister. Trafalgar Square was filled with people when I got there. They were hosting a pre-Tour de France event. I didn't realize that the Grand Depart was taking place in London this weekend. When these terrible dancers came out, dressed like road (gray suits, white stripe down the center) I couldn't handle it anymore and left. I walked home on the Mall past Buckingham Palace.
The next morning I headed to Henley for the Royal Regatta. Yes that's right. I am here in London at the crossroads of some very important events: Wimbledon, the Tour de France, the Henley Royal Regatta, and the Justin Timberlake Concert at the new O2. I'd heard from my seat friend on the Eurostar that I had to get to the Regatta, to have a look at English society.
I had to make two trips to the station, because the first time I left my Tube card and I was too impatient and stubborn to wait in the long lines to pay for a single pass. (Too thrifty also--I'd already paid for the week, why pay more because I'm forgetful?) Finally, out of Paddington Station, I was on my way. On the train I was suddenly surrounded by all these chic young people. I felt very conspicuous, very American. At least I'd worn a dress. My denim jacket felt like a neon sign. The men were mostly wearing jackets with their nice shirts, some ties. Bottles of wine were opened before we left the station, and I noticed most people carried grocery bags. Picnic lunches--how could I not know?--crap! The ladies dressed ranged from hip, slightly slutty to did-you-just-pull-that-out-of-your-grandmothers-dress-up-box? prim. They looked like they'd been dressed by costume designers from Amanda Bynes' movie, What a Girl Wants. They even had hats. The cutest ones were more suggestions of hats than real hats: stiff circular bows, trimmed with feathers or ribbon.
Dressy, dressy. Notice hats on left. Lady on right shares my denim dilemma.
Stripes! Some of them wore ties that perfectly matched the jackets.
I was way out of my league. As I got out at the station and took a bathroom break (always a good decision) I made up my mind to have a good time. I wasn't easily convinced. I noticed that most people had little paper shields pinned to their dress straps or lapels, almost like gift tags. Where could I get tagged? I walked over the bridge, catching sight of the grand festivities, and headed toward the sales tent. "This stand is for members, only members can buy. I'm sorry, but all of the public stands are sold out today," a kind lady told me. "But you can walk along the footpath. It's quite nice."
So I headed off. Actually, being alone, this was by far the best way to go. I walked the entire length of the regatta, watching the racers row by in turn. I passed very posh people at the start. Men looked very proud to have on loud magenta and green striped coats, or carnation pink blazers with matching ties--oarsmen with fine tradition. The hats got bigger as the ladies got older. As I walked further along away from the members area and toward the start, the crowd got decidedly less genteel. I even saw girls in just their bathing suit tops and shorts. Shabby and improper. I had a good time, and headed back to the city a little early.

Back in town, I headed to Leicester Square in the heart of the West End theater district. I ate a little picnic dinner in Trafalgar Square, and then got tickets for the new show, "In Celebration!" This show's main draw for me is that it was starring Orlando Bloom. That's right. I paid a nice fee to sit for two hours 50 feet away from Orlando Bloom in person. The play was good, despite all that. It was about family relationships, which is always an interesting subject. Did I mention I saw Orlando Bloom in person? There were girls in the audience who looked like they'd dressed expecting him to ask them out from the stage.
Fountain in Trafalgar Square. Note the Tour de France stands behind.
The next morning I headed to the Mall near Buckingham Palace to watch some behind the scenes action before the Tour de France Stage One left. The riders were all in and out of their buses, getting interviewed, and talking a little with fans. I stood next to a cycling enthusiast who helped clue me in to everything (very helpful). I saw Fabian Cancellara, the rider who won the Prologue, wearing his yellow jersey. It was a good, laid-back location for up-close views.


When they left, riding toward Greenwich and the official start, I headed to the Cabinet War Rooms and Churchill Museum. If you visit London, go here--whether you think you're interested or not. It is an incredible, interactive, and informative place with a really cool, subdued feel. It's one of my favorite museums on this trip littered with the great European museums.
I left WWII and headed to London Bridge and the Old Operating Theater. This place was really fun for me. It is a museum to the old practice of medicine, surgery, and training medical students. It's loaded with herbs (medicines for the humours), equipment, and photos. I'm very glad to be learning medicine now, rather than then. At that time consenting to surgery was basically agreeing to physician-assisted suicide. I read patient notes that made me shudder.
View the students would have had: patient on wooden table, no anesthesia, physician's cane between the teeth for pain, sawdust box below to catch running blood.
I ate lunch overlooking the Thames and then crossed the Millenium Bridge, aka the Blade of Light or Wobbly-Twobbly, to St. Peters and back.
Millenium Foot Bridge
Then I hit Tate Modern for a look at art from the last century. In my hour and a half blitz I only saw two galleries, but they included incredible works by artists such as Jackson Pollock, Henri Mattise, Pablo Picasso, and Marc Chagall. If I have any time left over tomorrow, I think I'll go back.
Tate closed just in time for me to walk back over to the Globe Theater to watch Shakespeare's Othello. As I walked in I felt like I was walking either back in history or onto the set of Shakespeare in Love. But it was real. I was too late to get one of the cheap standing-only tickets; instead I sat comfortably on a rented cushion in the back with a great view of the stage. The play was just okay, I'm sad to say. Iago was incredible, as were Rodorigo and Cassio. The girls were pretty good, but Othello just didn't quite hit it. His voice was too soft for the Moor.


This morning I did a double decker tour and then watched the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. In other words, I was definitively a tourist. A little bored with the grand procession, I headed off to the British Library.
They say that Britain's greatest contribution is in its written word, despite all its imperialistic history. As an English major and long-time lover of books and words, I'd have to agree. The British Library literally has a treasure chest room, housing incredible works. Here's a snapshot of just a few of the hand-written things: Handel's Messiah; Charlotte Bronte's Jane Eyre; Lewis Carroll's diary where he writes of finishing writing down Alice's Adventures; the Beatles lyrics of Yesterday, Help! (in marker, I think), and others; letters from Queen Elizabeth I, Chaucer's Canterbury Tales, Beowulf, the Magna Carta and lots of other stuff. In print, one of the first Gutenberg Bibles, a first printing of Walt Whitman's Leaves of Grass, and other illuminated and sacred texts. I had a ball.
In the afternoon I went to Kensington Gardens, and looked at Kensington Palace, which was once the home of the late Princess Diana. The people still mourn her. I walked to the Orangery, just behind the palace, for high tea. It was very pleasant, and very expensive. Definitely something you have to do at least once. I did champagne tea: a flute of champagne, pot of tea, cucumber sandwiches, scone with clotted cream and berries, and chocolate cake. It's very traditional. Let's face it--it was dinner.
High Tea at Orangery
That brings us up to date! I know this was long, so sorry about that. I only have about 40 hours left on this amazing adventure. I'm doing much better than I even expected alone. My little room is a nice home base. London is a great city alone, because there's enough to keep me constantly busy and surrounded by other people. I'm minding the gap at stations, feeling safe even at night (though I'm on guard, don't worry), and am even getting the hang of looking the right direction when crossing the street. It's helpful, though, that they paint big "Look Right" and "Look Left" signs at the ends of the walks. I get nervous when I see cars going by with no one in the driver's seat, though; that still manages to make me laugh.

The Mall, leading straight to Buckingham PalaceThanks for making the trip with me. Hope you're all doing well. Let me know.